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Tips For Successful Pump
Installation

Pre Installation Preparation Diagnosis

1. Confirm the Diagnosis

Don’t just assume the pump is bad. A whining noise or stiff steering can have other causes.

  • Check the Fluid: Low, burnt, or contaminated fluid is a common cause of noise and failure.
  • Inspect the Belt: A loose, glazed, or worn serpentine belt can cause slippage and noise.
  • Listen for Noise: Whining that changes with engine RPM is often pump-related. A groaning when turning the wheel is often a different issue.
  • Check for Leaks: Inspect the pressure and return lines, the rack and pinion, and the pump itself for signs of leakage.

2. Source the Right Parts

SPL pumps quality is compatible to OEM pumps, we guarantee proper function when installed correctly, providing peace of mind to our customers.

  • New Seals & O-Rings: We supply sealing kit with every pump. Never reuse the old ones.
  • Proper Fluid: Use the specified fluid by the vehicle manufacturer (e.g., ATF+4, CHF11S, or specific Power Steering Fluid). Using the wrong fluid can destroy the new pump.
  • Consider a Flush Kit: Old fluid contamination can cause pump failure and VOID WARRANTY. For a thorough job, consider installing a new return line hose or an in-line filter to prevent old debris from contaminating the new pump.

The Installation Process

1. Safety First

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Work on a cool engine.
  • Wear safety glasses – power steering fluid can spray under pressure and is irritating to the eyes.

2. Drain and Clean

Remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Consider disconnecting the return line from the reservoir and draining it into a pan. This gets more old fluid out.

Clean the outside of the reservoir, hoses, and the area around the pump. You don’t want dirt falling into the system when you open it.

3. Remove the Old Pump

  • Relieve tension on the serpentine belt using the belt routing diagram as a guide for re-installation.
  • Disconnect the pressure and return lines. Have your catch pan ready!
  • Unbolt the pump from its bracket. Note the arrangement of any brackets or pulleys.
  • If your pump has a press-on pulley, you must use a pulley removal tool. Do not hammer it off or pry it, as this will damage the pulley and the new pump’s shaft.

4. Prepare the New Pump

  • Transfer any necessary brackets from the old pump to the new one.
  • Pre-fill the Pump: Before installing it, pour new fluid into the pump’s inlet until it is full. A dry start is one of the leading causes of immediate pump failure, as the vanes inside cannot prime themselves.

5. Install the New Pump

  • Critical: If you removed a press-on pulley, use the pulley installation tool to press the pulley onto the new pump’s shaft. Do not hammer it on. Ensure it is seated perfectly straight and to the correct depth, matching the old pump.
  • Carefully guide the pump into place and hand-tighten the mounting bolts.
  • Connect the pressure line with its new O-ring/seal. Tighten to specification if available.
  • Connect the return hose to the pump inlet.
  • Re-install the serpentine belt, double-checking the proper alignment.

Pump Bleeding – Critical, This Is Where Many Installations Fail

1. Initial Fill and “Static” Bleeding

  • Reconnect the battery.
  • Fill the reservoir to the “COLD” or “MIN” line with the correct new fluid.
  • With the engine OFF, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times. This slowly moves fluid through the system and begins to purge large air pockets.

2. “Dynamic” Bleeding with the Engine

  • Start the engine. You will likely hear loud whining immediately—this is normal as air is being churned through the fluid.
  • Let the engine run for a few seconds, then turn it off.
  • Check the fluid level. It will have dropped significantly as the pump ingested fluid. Add more fluid.
  • Repeat this process (run engine, check level, add fluid) until the level stabilizes.

3. Final Bleeding and Test

  • With the engine running and the fluid level correct, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock.
  • Do not hold it at the steering stops for more than a few seconds, as this builds extreme pressure and heats the fluid.
  • Continue this until the whining noise subsides. It may take 5-15 minutes of driving to completely silence the pump.
  • Inspect all connection points for any leaks.

Pro-Tips for a Flawless Job

  • “The Cardboard Test”: After the initial test drive, place a piece of cardboard under the car where you were working. Check it the next morning for any fresh drips.
  • Reservoir Cleaning: If the old fluid was black or had metal debris, it’s highly recommended to remove and thoroughly clean the reservoir or replace it.
  • Check the High-Pressure Line: If the old pump failed due to metal shavings, there’s a chance debris is trapped in the high-pressure line. Inspect and replace it if necessary.
  • Patience is Key: The bleeding process cannot be rushed. Taking your time here is the difference between a quiet, smooth system and a noisy, soon-to-fail one.

By following these steps, you ensure a professional-quality installation that will provide reliable service and prevent costly comebacks.